The wealth of Egypt ought greatly to
increase. How the people managed to live before is a mystery. Now
every field is full of labourers reaping and stacking the corn, women
gleaning, and in some places the patient, ugly black buffaloes
ploughing the stubble for fresh crops.
At half-past six we reached Cairo, and were conveyed in a large
_char-a-bancs_ to what was formerly Shepherd's Hotel, now partly
rebuilt and much altered for the better. Even in that short drive we
could see that the face of the capital of Egypt had altered as much
as the country, though I am not sure that it is so greatly improved.
After a refreshing dip in cool marble baths and a change of garments,
we went down to the large _table-d'hote_. Then we sat in the verandah
looking on the street until we became tired of doing nothing, after
which we started for a stroll in the Ezkebieh gardens close by. They
are beautifully laid out for evening promenade; but although the
flowers are lovely, and the turf, thanks to constant waterings, is
deliciously green, all the large trees have been cut down. There is no
seclusion, no shade, which seems a pity in a country where the
greatest desire of life is shelter from the noonday heat. To-night
both Arab and French bands were playing within the enclosure, and it
was pleasant enough listening to Offenbach's music under the beams of
the full moonlight.
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