The meal was spread in a large hall in a
most luxurious manner, and as the wind changed almost immediately, and
it came on to rain, we felt ourselves fortunate indeed in having
reached shelter. We had plenty of wraps, and the bearers ran us down
the hill again very quickly, so that we suffered no discomfort.
By the time the city walls were reached, the rain had ceased, and a
glorious red sunset glowed over the roofs, glinting through the holes
in the mats, and lighting up all the vermilion boards and gold
characters with which the houses and shops are decorated. The shadowy
streets were now full of incense or rather joss-stick smoke, for
every house and every shop has a large altar inside, and a small one
without, before which joss-sticks are burnt more or less all day long.
The streets seemed more crowded even than usual. Each of our bearers
struck out a line of his own, and it was not until we reached Shameen
that we all met again. Some of the ladies had been rather frightened
at finding themselves alone in the dark, crowded city. We were only
just in time to dress and go to dinner, after which we examined an
interesting collection, chiefly of coins, in process of formation for
the French Exhibition. They are carefully arranged, and will be most
valuable and interesting when complete.
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