It gave us rather a turn to see them
all padlocked in under the hatchways and iron gratings. At each
opening is posted an armed sentinel, ready to fire among the crowd in
case of any disturbance. In the saloon, also, is a stand of pistols,
and rifles with fixed bayonets, ready for the European passengers to
defend themselves with, in case of emergency. These are very necessary
precautions, on account of the numerous pirates who occasionally ship
in disguise among the crowd, murder the passengers and crew, and take
possession of the steamer. Not quite two years ago a vessel belonging
to this same company was assailed in that way. Every one on board was
murdered, and the ship taken to Macao.[19] But this voyage was more
prosperous, the captain was most kind and polite, and the boat clean
and comfortable. An excellent breakfast and an elaborate tiffin were
served at noon, all for the sum of four dollars a head, including
wine, beer, and spirits _ad libitum_.
[Footnote 19: I have since been told that only the captain and one or
two passengers were killed, and the vessel run ashore near, not at
Macao.]
On first leaving Hankow the course lies between islands and through
fine mountain passes. Later on the country becomes flat and
uninteresting till the Bogue Forts are reached.
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