There is only one European resident here, connected with
the telegraph; and a dull time he must have of it. The wire crosses
the Straits a few miles higher up.
The streets appeared to be full of soldiers, patrolling singly and in
pairs, with fixed bayonets. The temples were being used as barracks,
and the principal buildings seemed to be strongly guarded; but
otherwise everything appeared to go on as usual.
We waded through the mud and snow to the proverbial end of all things,
always followed by the same crowd, and stared at by all the
inhabitants of the houses we passed. They seemed very timid, and
inclined to run away directly we turned round. Still, their curiosity,
especially respecting my sealskin jacket and serge dress, was
insatiable, and I constantly felt myself being gently stroked and
touched.
We returned to the yacht, and whilst we were at lunch some officers
came on board to say that, this not being a treaty port, we could not
purchase any provisions, except through them, and with special
permission. This was soon arranged, and our visitors were rewarded for
their trouble by being shown over the yacht.
_Sunday, February 18th_.--We were awakened in the night by a heavy
gale, with snow and sleet beating furiously on the deck. In the
morning the land was covered with snow, the water froze as it was
pumped on deck, and the bitter wind howled and whistled through the
rigging.
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