They are quite worth a scramble up to see.
From Chiosiu we went right across the city to the temple of Nishni
Hongangi. On our way we were more than once stopped and turned off the
direct road, which was kept by soldiers for the passage of the Mikado
to worship at the tombstone of his innumerable ancestors, real or
imaginary. Being a spiritual Emperor, he has to be well kept up to
his religious duties, and is always being sent off to worship at some
shrine or another, in order to maintain his popularity with the
people, his Ministers meanwhile managing the affairs of state. Tanjo
and Ikawura went off in haste to-day to Tokio, as there are rumours of
a rebellion in the south.
Nishni Hongangi is one of the largest and finest temples we have yet
seen, even in spite of a large portion having been destroyed by the
disastrous fire of 1864. The gates are splendidly ornamented, with
carved chrysanthemum flowers. The centre temple is very fine, and is
surrounded by smaller rooms, all decorated by the best Japanese
artists of about two hundred years ago. Notice had been sent that the
English Minister was coming with a party of friends, and everything
had accordingly been prepared for our reception. In some places they
had even put down carpets, to obviate the necessity of our having to
take off our boots.
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