As we emerged into the open country the landscape became very pretty,
and the numerous villages, nestling in the valleys at the foot of the
various small hills, had a most picturesque appearance. At a
stone-quarry that we passed, on the side of a mountain, there were
about seventy men at work, without any clothing, though the
thermometer was far below freezing point. The Japanese are a sensitive
nation, and finding that foreigners were astonished and shocked at the
habits of the people, in going about without clothes, and in bathing
in public and at their house doors, they passed a law prohibiting
these customs in towns. In the country, however, the more primitive
customs are still in force, and every dwelling has its half-open
bath-house, whilst the people do as they like in the matter of
clothing.
After stopping twice on the road, to drink the inevitable tea, we
changed from our carriage to _jinrikishas_, each drawn and pushed by
four strong men, bowling along at a merry pace. The sun was very warm
in the sheltered valleys, and the abundance of evergreens of all kinds
quite deluded one into the belief that it was summer time, especially
as camellias grew like forest trees, covered with red and white bloom,
amidst a dense tangle of bamboos and half-hardy palms.
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