This
fearful descent overpast, and that in perfect safety, we rolled merrily
away down hill, till we reached Colonel Beam's tavern, a neat,
low-browed, Dutch, stone farmhouse, situate in an angle scooped out of a
green hill-side, with half a dozen tall and shadowy elms before it--a
bright crystal stream purling along into the horse-trough through a
miniature aqueduct of hollowed logs, and a clear cold spring in front of
it, with half a score of fat and lazy trout floating in its transparent
waters.
A hearty welcome, and a no less hearty meal having been here encountered
and despatched, we rattled off again, through laden orchards and rich
meadows; passed the confluence of the three bright rivers which issue
from their three mountain gorges, to form, by their junction, the
fairest of New Jersey's rivers, the broad Passaic; reached the small
village noted for rum-drinking and quarter racing--high Pompton--thence
by the Preakness mountain, and Mose Canouze's tavern--whereat, in honor
of Tom's friend, a worthy of the self-same kidney with himself, we
paused awhile--to Paterson, the filthiest town, situate on one of the
loveliest rivers in the world, and famous only for the possession, in
the person of its Catholic priest, of the finest scholar and best fellow
in America, whom we unluckily found not at home, and therefore tasted
not, according to friend Harry's promise, the splendid Innishowen which
graces at all times his hospitable board.
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