From this place we started
at about nine, and took a guide as far as the top of the Col de la
Croix Haute, having too nearly lost our way yesterday; the paths
have not been traversed much yet, and the mule and sheep droppings
are but scanty indicators of the direction of paths of which the
winds and rain have obliterated all other traces.
The Col de la Croix Haute is rightly named, it was very high, but
not so hard to ascend until we reached the snow. On the Italian
side it is terribly steep, from the French side, however, the slope
is more gradual. The snow was deeper at the top of this pass than
on either of the two previous days; in many places we sank deep in,
but had no real difficulty in crossing; on the Italian side the snow
was gone and the path soon became clear enough, so we sent our guide
to the right about and trudged on alone.
A sad disappointment, however, awaited us, for instead of the clear
air that we had heretofore enjoyed, the clouds were rolling up from
the valley, and we entirely lost the magnificent view of the plains
of Lombardy which we ought to have seen; this was our first mishap,
and we bore it heroically. A lunch may be had at Prali, and there
the Italian tongue will be heard for the first time.
We must have both looked very questionable personages, for I
remember that a man present asked me for a cigar; I gave him two,
and he proffered a sou in return as a matter of course.
Pages:
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46